I have no idea what you mean. It sounds like your saying you need to wait bc you cant disconnect? you can. Log into your router (192.168.0(or 1 or 2).1 then go to one of the settings and click disconnect. I had 3 routers and all of them had this option.

>>94
OP here. Yes, spot on, that's what I'm trying to say. I'm completely new routers and am taking the advice of the person who's had one for years and who helped me choose the one I have.

I'm advised that you just leave them connected permanently to the Internet - can this be right? Is it what other people do? What about when it comes to installing other software and everything's supposed to be exited? (Nothing running for the best install.)

Of course, I can disconnect - by simply unplugging from the phone socket on the wall. Is *this* what others do?

I think I've yet got to install the software for the firewall within the router, or at least set the firewall up; maybe the option for disconnecting you gave me will be available then. Thanks for the method you explained.

You sound like a noob and your friend sounds somewhat of a newbie. No you dont need to install any software. What does disconnecting your internet have anything to do with quiting programs so they suck up all the cpu and make your install slower :p.

I only do that when my router or modem is jammed. I pull out the power to both, wait 10seconds then plug in again.

Otherwise i just log into my router and click on my internet status and click disconnect. I can do it on any computer on the network including wifi.

"install the software for the firewall within the router"? I never heard of that. I heard of routers coming with firewalls for your PC but thats never needed. But that only stops incoming, apps/trojans can still connect outside and do bad things. But thats another thread. Just logging into your browser and click on disconnect is what i assume most non retarded ppl do.

>>96
"What about when it comes to installing other software and everything's supposed to be exited? (Nothing running for the best install.) "

A router is an external machine. It has nothing to do with locked files or conflicting settings for newly-installed programs.

>>98
>>99

Yes, I'm a newbie to a router - had it for just a week. Been on Internet for 5 years, so not new to that or PC's. But I'm not into the techno side of things: I'm strictly a user, not any sort of geek.

The software I refer to is the disc that was in the router packaging box; I presumed this was to enable the firewall. I've since learned that the firewall is configured through the browser.

If I quit all programs, that means quitting all four security items - AV, AS, virtual browser and software firewall. The rule is that you never connect to the Internet without first opening at least AV and firewall. But I guess that for the sake of security it's down to logging into my router to disconnect it when I need to quit my Internet connection - when I install any software.

What makes this so frustrating is that I have absolutely no need for a router for its primary purpose - a network, I've obtained it purely for the extra security re the inbuilt firewall (I scored badly on a firewall test and was told a router was the answer). As an aside, I was told it would give a better and slightly faster Internet speed. Has anyone else benefited in this way?

To further add to my woe I'm experiencing problems in my understanding of its application and have reverted to my modem, plus....I've changed my software firewall and am getting a much-improved score now!

Thanks for the replies.

www.dizzler.com :)

http://anonib.com/yahoogirls/

Did you try adding the keyloggers etc on her computer to the exception list on the antivirus program?

NYPA, also you're to dumb to hack. Get a book, learn to understand basic principles of computing, then come back with a question that isn't based on something you saw on TV.

>>68
OP here, I had forgotten about this topic. It turns out it Media Player Classic, which I use. Windows Media Player can seek just fine.
I wonder if there's some settings I can twiddle with in Classic to make it seek faster.

Experimentation ensues.

Seems there's an option for WMV files under "Tweak" in the Media Player Classic options. Tick it and seeking in WMV files is fast, but it won't play damaged files. Not sure why this isn't enabled by default.

It has nothing to do with decoder. It's keyframes.
Keyframes contain the whole frame data and are trivial to decode. Non-keyframes don't store an image, but instead the difference from the previous (and sometimes next) frame. To get to a non-keyframe, you jump to the keyframe before it (however far it may be), then you decode all the non-keyframes in between to get to where you want. The tradeoff is a keyframe is very fast to decode, but takes up a lot of space (bigger file); a non-keyframe takes much less space, but takes time for the processor to decode.
The amount between keyframes is called keyframe interval. If you have a powerful processor, decoding can be fast, and you can save space by having very large keyframe intervals.
Just my 2cent, but I hate people who encode hour-long videos, then put keyframes every 5 minutes. It's VERY annoying when you need to seek.
Also a lot of streaming wmv just don't have keyframes at all.

>>80

68 here. This man is right. But i did notice when jumping around videos vlc would have a bad picture for a few seconds and media player woul have it prefect every time. I cant remember how long ago that was. I am sure its fixed now but i was also messing with wmv files that were streaming and had no keyframes. His answer is more right but i think decoders have something to do with it when using wmv and asf files.

How do I find out what the keyframe interval of a video is? I have Media Player Classic, Windows Media Player and VirtualDub at my disposal.

FlashGet?

downloadthemall?

There was one called Thumbs Down, which used DownThemAll, but DTA only downloads the thumbnails not the full size images that they link to. Right?

DownThemAll works fine if you set the max.simult.downloads to > 1 <
boardowners will block downloader wich use too much bandwith (= higher charges for them )

camstudio.org is free
but do two changes: change the default 200 frames per second down to about 15, and pick a codec than microsoft video 1 (people on here recommend xvid http://www.xvid.org/Downloads.15.0.html )

>>52

15 ? sure that's enough ? lol

thx fpr the help :)

do i have to copy the codec into the CamStudio folder ?

>>54
Which one? Xvid, just run it and install.
If you're talking about camstudio codec, right-click the inf file and pick install

After seeing so many ppl say camtasia on this site. I tried it and liked it. You need to remember to set the FPS (I like 15 or 20) and to set it to a good encoder (xvid hasnt failed me yet)

For streaming i use jaksta but i cant find a crack/license key that is still valid.

yeah, dont max out your upload. Put it to like 70 or 80% of your upload. When you max out your upload you cant tell ppl who sent you your DL that you received data successfully. So just makes sure you leave some room for UL and make sure you consider other programs such as browsers * how many ppl on the network who is doing regular browsing.

Then make sure your port is open. You'll see a green checkmark in utorrent. Thats pretty much all you need to know. Also the first 10, 15 or so mins are slow because A) You need to send or other client put you on low priority bc you may not be playing fair and uploading to other and B) If you started for the first time and have no data A is going to be a lot worse bc you cant exactly send data yet.

>>72
Thanks for the info. I must say that I have noticed my up is often 3 or 4 times what my down is. This tells me something can't be right.

I'm not sure what's meant when you mention a green mark, but when I installed uTorrent it ran all its network testing and all wqas okay.

I have a standard "1 end-user, no LAN" PC, so there's no one else sharing my line etc.

However, I'm downloading a file right now and before I opened Firefox the speed was fluctuating between 0.2 and 1.2kB/sec. It's taken 45mins to get just 4.25 of a 210Mb file down. Current projection is that it will take a day to complete! But it wont....I'm not the sort to wait that length of time for a file.

The part you wrote about making sure I have some data to share makes sense. I'll always make sure I have some to be passed on.

Thanks for your help bud. Even this smallish amount has taught me a few things.

>>73

yikes. Connected directly to the internet. Either make sure your OS is patched up or get a firewall. My router is my firewall since all incoming connections are ignored until i set the ports to be opened.

I mean green checkmark. At the bottom of uTorrent you'll see your down/up speed and a symbol to the left of it. It might be yellow or red. If its green your port is open and you are receiving incoming connections.

If your right click utorrent on the system tray you can set the upload speed. Try setting it to 10k less then what you are uploading now. Or just try 20 and see what happens.

I had two torrents that had many seeders and was going 10k. It was so F^**ing weird (It was windows 7). Try downloading this and check out the speed http://torrent.unix-ag.uni-kl.de/ i got a high speed (a linux live cd can save your ass when you get a virus or comp crashes). or go to mininova.org and grab a popular tv show (or movie)

From your firefox statement it sounds like your maxing your upload. Make it lower. I had the odd problem where my upload was small (like 20) and my internet was lagging. In that case put your upload to 5 or 10k and just leave it bc its something nasty with a torrent or a weird situation that occurred. You'll know if you have this problem when sites are slow and pining google takes more then 100ms (start->run->"cmd" type ping google.com)

>>74
No problem re the security aspect; I'm pretty careful about such matters and have an up-to-date patched OS, a firewall, active AV and active AS. But thanks for taking the time to point it out. I know I need a router for the greater security and this will be sorted in a couple of days time.

Got you with the green checkmark now. Yes, it's there. Has been ever since installation. I tend to think the slowness of downloads is due to congestion (especially with it being the wekend) and the fact that being new, I've not yet got much to share with others.

My upload was set at 46k. I've now lowered it to 30. If it proves unsatisfactory, I'll try the 20 mark.

Yeah, I'll give the speed check a try. Be interesting to see what I get from it. Afraid I'm not so knowledgeable as to give the Linux a try but I have heard before that they're a good safety net.

I come in at 50-60ms when pinging speedtest.net. I presume this compares favourably with the figure I should expect from Google.

Thanks again for your help. Appreciated.

I dont know batch programming but i do know i seen a script that can search folders and subfolders. and i know curl can upload it. http://curl.haxx.se/download.html I done it myself. You just need the exe ignore the other files. type man curl in google for the manual pages

i used this http://wakaba.c3.cx/
it requires perl and some work changing the config file and a database. IIRC # are comments and you need to comment out all of it and you'll see double ## for things that should be comment out normally

the issue is the nellymoser asao codec. read about it on wikipedia
this is roundabout but it might work
for video: (you probably know how)
use flv extractor from moitah.net to put into AVI (it won't do audio)
since you have flv1, you NEED ffdshow http://ffdshow-tryout.sourceforge.net/ (install with VFW support)
start menu, VFW configuration: decoders, enable flv1. if you don't do this the avi won't be readable in virtualdub.
audio part:
if you could find nelly2pcm somewhere that'd probably be the best way to go. otherwise try
http://flv2mp3.com/

In virtualdbub (virtualdub.org, get the 32-bit one), open your flv1 avi, then click audio, audio from another file and use the mp3. file, save as avi (use batch operation if you're going to do it to a lot of files).

>>35

crappy thing is. When i use that flv to split it makes the video the full X minutes and screws up the framerate (WAY to slow) instead of having it start at minute X of Y (like 26/28min)

I understand nellymoser causes problems but... does this affect my -video output-? xvid is making the file 3mb when i expect 5 or 6. the original is almost 9mb.

---
nvm the problem with this one (the only one that works so far) is the source video sucks. Even tho everything playsback the source well it sucks inside the app which causes the output to suck. No wonder my output is bad.

no idea what you meant in first paragraph. you may have to retype that

audio shouldn't affect video stream
xvid is mpeg-4 and flv1 is a variant of h.263, so you should expect slightly better compression from xvid at the same quality level (you can make xvid huge if you pick a quantizer 1 = maximum quality)

misc
if you're getting vids from youtube, may I suggest grabbing the high-quality version instead? you'll get MP4's but at least they'll look somewhat better.
If you're editing to post, don't worry about posting flv/flv1/nellymoser. there's plenty of players that handle them now.

nah i am editing bc its a steam and you cant jump around. Also when i first recorded i use camtasia which isnt what i wanted (i wanted to capture the actual stream so i can do multiple at once WITH sound) i notice camtasia had better filesizes.

In short, i am editing so i can jump around the file and get (a good deal) better filesizes.

Problem is everything crashes bc it doesnt know how to deal with a stream. The one app that worked seems to have its own flv codec which somehow decompresses it as BAD quality. Which explains why all of my settings had bad output.

If the main reason is to add seeking to FLVs try FLVMDI.

No, I don't think I have anything on here... I have an old copy of Cool Edit Pro where I used someone else's serial number. Should I delete it? Other than that, I have absolutely nothing... that I can think of.

Well, maybe I should try to figure out how to do it myself. I don't think installing the hard drive would be any problem for me, but I don't understand how to "ghost" it and clone it and all that or how to make my external drive bootable or... anything. Eek.

Plus they only charge $24. :) Plus cost of HDD, which shouldn't be too inflated over Best Buy or Newegg. They're good folk.

Thank you for the advice. Please continue advising me!

If everything still boots use darricksboot'n'nuke (from any download site like major geeks) and that will sort your drive out for prying eyes. Put it on a Gutmann wipe.

Uh... guys. He's looking to clone his drive onto another one. Wiping it kind of makes that difficult. I don't think you've thought your cunning plan through. (Do any of you work for Geek Squad, by any chance?)

I was gonna' go into some rant on how some big-box chain was gonna' fuck you out of the price of a new computer for something so simple you could do yourself at home in maybe an hour, (because they will...) but damn... that's beer money they're asking for.

They're only charging $24 for a disk image, installing a new drive, and re-imaging? That's dirt cheap. Like... "IT off Craigslist" cheap. I charge more than that for an hour of basic service, and I'm still 1/4th of 'retail.'

If you don't know 'em, or know people who've had work done there and reccomend them, I'd be really worried about that price, but if you trust 'em, go for it. At most, they're going to do a quick search for .jpgs, .mpgs, .mp3s, etc... to see if they can score any easy win. They're not going to go looking for recoverable file fragments.

Since you have a backup, you can delete any documents that may contain personal information, make sure you clear out any cookies or saved passwords in your browsers, and you're good to go. (Though it sounds like you've already deleted everything, so great.) Grab something like ShredAgent (Google it...) and run a wipe on the free space. Nobody short of a forensic team is recovering shit, and they'd have to be some really bored feds to waste their time.

As long as you're not one of the dumbasses with a big folder full of child-porn on the desktop you'll be fine.

Or just read up on how to install a HD - if you're running IDE (the gray ribbon cable) it's maybe 5 minutes of reading to figure out the jumper settings on the drive and a screwdriver. SATA has no jumpers, so a boiled peanut could install the drive. You'd do just fine. Then just go torrent a copy of Acronis Disk Image. It's stupid easy- It'll make a boot CD, you load it, and click a few buttons. Boom. You&#

Message too long. Click here to view the full text.

>>37
Poster of #31 here, I was responding to this:

"So, you've backed up all your data to an external drive, simply remove all the data from the internal drive. Delete it, you don't need it there anymore and they don't need to see it. It's unlikely that they'll be motivated to search for porn fragments that have already been deleted. They're only installing a new HD."

which was in post #29. Perhaps you misunderstood my message (or didn't read previous posts to see what I was replying to).

I wouldn't worry as long as you DON'T FUCKING CALL ATTENTION TO IT!!

Realistically, no tech guy is going to cause a backlog in the orders just because he "might find something". Now I should mention that many outfits will copy the drive's contents to another disk (on a local server or something) before putting it on the new disk that you buy, but this is mostly to make sure the data isn't lost because it was put into a brand new dud-drive (occasionally happens that a new HD is dead out-of-the-box). After a few days/weeks they will delete it anyway to make room for other backups for other customers. Since most of the time this is don't by copying/ghosting whole partitions, it is possible that the utility might display the filenames as they scan by, but it tends to be very fast and most repair people will only look in on it every so often because of the time involved... but don't make obvious filenames and foldernames if you are trying to keep anything secret.

For future reference, use TrueCrypt or a passworded *.rar for secure storage.

Anyway, you could always copy the disk your self using some utilities... lots of good ones (some are free) plus many website that will show you the hookup procedure for doing this.

do a search on www.katz.cd for tidysongs.

no luck, thanks for the suggestion. Keep em coming Anon

bump

they all have a default pass so put the make and model number into google and ask for it

I'm just stupid for not thinking about that....Thank you for reminding me!